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            送信兒的臘八粥

            來源:未知 閱讀:
            神話故事導讀:
            北京有句俗話:送信兒的臘八粥,農歷臘月初八家家戶戶喝臘八粥,就意味著最早送來了過春節的信息。從這以后,北京民間過年的氣氛越來越濃,一般從臘八開始,一直延續到元宵節。因此,老北京人流傳著一種民謠,老婆老婆你別饞,過了臘八就是年;臘八粥過幾天

                北京有句俗話:“送信兒的臘八粥”,農歷臘月初八家家戶戶喝“臘八粥”,就意味著最早送來了過春節的信息。從這以后,北京民間“過年”的氣氛越來越濃,一般從“臘八”開始,一直延續到元宵節。因此,老北京人流傳著一種民謠,“老婆老婆你別饞,過了臘八就是年;臘八粥過幾天,里里拉拉二十三;二十三糖瓜粘,二十四掃舊房,二十五做豆腐,二十六去割肉,二十七宰年雞,二十八把面發,二十九蒸饅頭,三十晚上熬一宵,大年初一去拜年”。

                臘月初八食粥這一習俗,最早來源于佛教。據說佛教的創始人釋迦牟尼在得道成佛之前,曾游遍了印度的名山大川,尋長老,訪異人,苦修行,探求入生的真諦。他來到了印度的摩揭陀國,這里地處荒僻,人煙稀少,天氣酷熱,他又累又餓,支持不住暈倒在尼連河畔。這時,一位善良的牧羊女恰好從此經過,急忙將自已隨身所帶的午餐拿出來,又取來甘甜的泉水,用火加熱后,一口一口地喂釋迦牟尼。牧女的午餐,是幾天來家里吃剩下的各種粘米、糯米和豆類混合在一起的雜貨飯,里面還有牧女從附近山上采來的各種干果。這對于多時不見水米的釋尼牟來說,真可謂是美味甘露,霎時元氣恢復,精神振奮。食畢,他又在尼連河里洗了個痛快澡,頓覺全身舒適,然后在菩提樹下靜坐沉思,于農歷十二月八日得道成佛。從此,每到臘月初八,群僧集會,誦經演法,還用仿效牧女做的多種米豆干果粥敬佛,以示紀念。愛迪生網www.aidisheng.net

                臘八粥在宋人筆記中亦多有記載。吳自牧《夢梁錄》卷六云:“八日、寺院謂之‘臘八’,大剎寺等具設五味粥,名曰‘臘八粥’。”而在紀念佛祖成道這一天,寺院還互贈粥品,廣結善緣,又稱為“佛粥”,對此詩人蘇東坡曾有“今朝佛粥更相饋”的詩句。《燕都游賢志》中還有“十二月八日賜百官粥,民間亦作臘八粥,以米果雜成之,品多者為勝”的記載。可見,臘八粥起初是佛門節令不可缺少的祭祀食品,后來從佛教寺院逐漸發展到朝廷、官府中,最后流傳到民間。相傳“黃帝始烹谷為粥”,《禮記》也有“食粥天下之達禮也”的記載。《太公金匱》里還記載了武王伐紂時,洛邑雪深丈余,姜太公使人獻粥以御寒的故事。看來,粥的起源在商周之前。到了漢唐以后,隨著農業的發展,農作物品種逐漸增多,粥也得到了相應的發展。唐時除有米粥、栗粥、豆粥、麥粥外,還有胡麻粥、長生粥和防風粥。而臘八粥這一古老的齋食,正是綜合各種粥的長處,隨著佛教的流傳,逐漸發展起來的。

                臘八粥雖不象山珍海味那樣珍貴,卻是人們十分珍愛的食品。明清時期,北京城內外寺廟林立,一到臘月初八便竟相熬粥以敬佛,其中雍和宮更以臘八進粥為一年中之盛事。雍和宮的喇嘛每年在臘月初八夜里熬粥供佛,朝廷還“特派大臣監視,以昭誠敬。其粥鍋之大,可容數石米。”熬好的臘八粥除供佛外,還要供給皇宮內院及皇帝食用,所以顯得格外隆重而又熱鬧。直到清代慈禧太后時,她所享用的臘八粥已再是“大鍋飯”,改由壽膳房飯局特制,熱鬧自然也減去了幾分。

                在民間,臘月初八這一天人們也做臘八粥。“祀家堂門灶隴畝,闔家聚食,饋送親鄰”(《帝京歲時記勝》),而且“竟巧爭奇,較之古人有過之而無不及”(《燕京歲時記》)。許多臘八粥都是“雜諸豆米,其果實如榛栗菱芡之類,矜奇斗勝,多至數十種,皆漬染朱碧色,糖霜亦如之”。有的人家還把臘八粥涂在四合院中的棗樹及其它果樹上,傳說棗樹“吃”了臘八粥,來年能結出更多的果實。在這里,臘八粥又成了人們祈望豐收的象征。

                煮食臘八粥,由于我國各地出產谷物蔬果不同,所以出現南咸北甜中辣的特點。北方人愛用江米、粘黃米、小米、赤豆、豇豆等為原料,山東人喜加大紅棗、花生米,東北人喜加松子仁、榛子仁,而北京人喜加染紅的桃仁、杏仁、瓜子、葡萄干、栗子、熬成粥后加適量紅糖或白糖食用。南方人喜用粳米、蠶豆、芋艿、白果、青菜、肉丁等,外加少量鹽、桂皮等咸味臘八粥。而地處陜西、河南的中原人,多喜歡添加粘秫米、珍珠米、薏仁米,有些地方還加臘肉、羊肉,味道多呈辣味。在關中地區,人們又常以八種蔬菜做成臊子,澆在面條上食用,謂之“臘八面”。潼關一帶則重放辣椒油,并取“辣”“臘”諧音,當地稱“臘八湯面”。

                從營養和保健的角度看,由于粥內加入了大量谷豆果仁同煮,有條件的家庭還放入了核桃仁、栗子、桂圓、蓮子、花生米、紅棗、黃豆、豌豆、綠豆等,在“臘七臘八出門凍煞”的寒冬臘月時,喝碗熱氣騰騰的臘八粥,仔細品嘗不同味道的干果、雜豆,既是暖意盈懷消寒的佳品,又可增進食欲,滋補身體。粥內多種谷豆蔬菜果仁同煮,可起互補作用,特別是蛋白質中的八種氨基酸特別全,各種維生素和礦物質鈣、鐵、磷等也非常豐富,提高了蛋白質、脂肪、碳水化合物、多種維生素和礦物質的含量。由于粥爛易消化吸收,特別適合老人、兒童、孕婦、病人的食用,對人體具有健胃、養血、補氣、安神等功效。冬季常食這種臘八粥,不僅能驅寒保暖,而且養人補體,延年益壽,大益健康。

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