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            及第粥的由來

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            廣州西關是老廣州的城市中心,自唐代以來就是外埠商人集居地,商品的集散地,商業貿易相當活躍,各地飲食風尚和烹飪方法促進了西關飲食業的發展。文獻記載:廣州西關,肉林酒海,無寒暑,無晝夜。在這里產生了一大批極具特色的傳統美食,其中及第粥代代相傳

                廣州西關是老廣州的城市中心,自唐代以來就是外埠商人集居地,商品的集散地,商業貿易相當活躍,各地飲食風尚和烹飪方法促進了西關飲食業的發展。文獻記載:“廣州西關,肉林酒海,無寒暑,無晝夜。”在這里產生了一大批極具特色的傳統美食,其中“及第粥”代代相傳、家喻戶曉。

                及第粥是三元及第粥的簡稱。相傳,清朝時,廣東林召棠中狀元回鄉拜祖,他每天都喜歡用豬肝、豬腰子和豬肚子煮粥而食。

                有一天,一位退居廣州的御史前來探訪林召棠,剛巧林狀元正在吃粥,林便連忙招呼老御史同吃。御史嗅到一股誘人的香味兒,便問他吃的是什么粥。林狀元知道老御史常常盼望他兒子能科場高中,因此指著那粥恭敬地回答:及第粥。老御史聞之滿心喜歡,也不講客氣,便與狀無同食。粥白如凝脂,似醴酪,鮮香無比,味道很美,很受用。在科舉取仕時代,狀元、榜眼、探花為殿試頭三名,合稱三及第。林如棠便用豬肝、豬腰子、豬肚子三種豬內臟比作三及第。御史吃過及第粥后,回到家里便命廚人依法炮制,精心熬制及第粥給兒子吃。他的兒子果然高中狀無。老御史大喜過望,逢人便講及第粥的好處。因此,及第粥便廣為流傳開來。

                如令,在廣州吃及第粥依然是時尚。在西關當數伍湛記的及第粥最為有名。據說,伍湛記及第粥已有40多年的歷史了,創始人為順德人伍湛。他在文昌南路橫街開了一家父子店。由于當時廣州四大著名酒家之一的“文園”酒家就座落在文昌橫街,伍湛記恰恰就在街口,去“文園”酒家的食客經過伍湛記的時候,都被香氣撲鼻的及第粥所吸引,紛紛進去一品味道。伍湛記的及第粥色香味獨具,食客趨之若鶩。十分有趣的是莘莘學子吃及第粥,高考前后更是絡繹不絕,多為討個吉利。還有為數不少的父母買及第粥拿回家中給子女吃,充滿著無限愛心,寄托著“望子成龍”之意。

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